The never-ending project to fill my hole in the ocean while bailing it out

Preparing for Sailing Season '08
The Teak Trim Refinishing Project
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Description

I cut strips from 3/32" gasket material and using Gorilla Glue lightly cemented the strips in a few spots to the bottoms of the hatch rails, using tape to hold rail and gasket together until dry.  My plan is to apply 3M 4200 bedding compound between the gasket strips and the cabin top just at where the screws exit.  The next time the rails need to be removed, only the gasket material should be possibly damaged.  The 3/32" difference also should help the hatch slide easier.  I'm still contemplating how to rejoin the split wood.  (Apr. 17, 2008)

[Closeup Detail]

I finally have the cabin closed up, have sealed and fastened the sliding hatch rails, the hatch weatherboard and its half of the hasp latch, and the interior companionway trim.  While I had the sliding hatch off I thoroughly cleaned it of years of built-up and embedded mildew and grim with a mixture of slightly water-diluted bleach and Lestoil.  It was sparkling when I was done and ready for reinstallation.  First thing I did this morning was tighten the companionway trim I mounted late yesterday firmly into its bedding compound, then fastened the interior trim in place.  (Apr. 18, 2008)

I got the split hatch rail on using just bedding compound to fill the gap between by the new gasket and the missing teak at the split.  It's not perfection, but I'm about 90% satisfied with the outcome.  The gasket raised the hatch by 3/32" on both sides and enables it to slide noticeably easier.  Tomorrow I'll add the new handle to the hatch weatherboard, mount the hand rails and coaming pocket rings, and this project will be completed.

[Closeup Detail]

Today I completed the Teak Trim Refinishing Project of 2008.  All that remains to do is tighten down the hand rails into the bedding compound in the morning.  I installed them today along with the coaming pocket trim rings.  I decided to forego adding the new sliding hatch handle.  The hatch slides easier since adding the gasket material beneath the rails; mounting the handle could create problems unnecessarily.  I'd have to mount it high on the hatch weatherboard if it's to clear the lock hasp, and I'm not confident I have clearance on the interior backside at the top to fit screws through to the handle.  I don't want to risk drilling through the teak weatherboard only to find out not -- especially since the hatch now slides so much better.  (Apr. 19, 2008)

As with the sliding hatch, before adding the coaming pocket trim rings I scrubbed out the two pockets with a slightly water-diluted mixture of bleach and Lestoil using the sponge with a Scotchbrite backing.  The pockets needed cleaning of embedded mold and grim as much as the hatch did -- along with a couple of fortunately vacant wasp nests that were hidden within each.

After a thorough cleaning of the pockets' interiors, I put the refinished teak trim rings back on.  I'm gratified now that I went out in February, crawled aboard beneath the tarp, and removed them for refinishing after realizing I'd forgotten to include them last fall when removing the rest of the trim.  (Apr. 19, 2008)

See:
Before-and-After

This morning I snugged up the hand rails into the compound and declared the teak refinishing project done.  It should be good for at least a couple of years.  The boat's ready to be trailered down to the boatyard to have its repaired keel rehung when I get the call to bring it down, probably sometime in the coming week.  (Apr. 20, 2008)

Everything's bedded, fastened, and looking vastly improved.

There seems to be a bit more port-starboard play between the cribboards and the vertical tracks they slide into than there used to be, and between the cabin trunk and and those tracks too.  I can't imagine why, but the boards are looser all around.  The hatch has more port-starboard play in its rails as well, but I expect that's from the new gaskets beneath the rails lifting them and hatch 3/32" higher; it no longer scrapes (rests) on the cabin top.

I couldn't leave well enough alone -- that hatch handle kept calling to me.  So I took another look at the situation, tried another approach.  I found that I could lift the hasp latch before pulling the hatch all the way closed and the latch would fit nicely beneath the handle.  I centered the handle where it would mount permanently and marked the weatherboard.  Using a 1/8" bit I drilled through the teak and fiberglass for the two coarse wood screws, then used a bigger bit to drill out the holes to the screw size, keeping them a bit undersized, very tight going into the handle.  I wanted the screws to have a good bite in the teak.

I inserted the two screws from the back interior just enough to poke out through the new holes in the hatch weatherboard, then used the screw tips to mark the base of the handle where the screws would enter.  After drilling the handle to accept the screws, I put a dab of 3M 4200 around each hole then screwed the handle on securely.

I can't  flip the latch down without sliding the hatch a bit forward, but it's basically one motion and the hasp latch drops down.   I just couldn't call the project complete without that darned handle.  Now it's completed for sure, with no parts left over!  (Apr. 20, 2008)

The Teak Trim Refinishing Project complete . . .  or just about . . .  uh oh.  (Apr. 21, 2008)

[Closeup Detail]

See:
A before-and-after comparison